The Slow Release technology found in the cosmetic products is a unique technology that allows the slow and controlled release of the active ingredients, in order for them to penetrate the skin in a more effective way. The ingredients within the products have to be of high quality, as the effectiveness of the new technology is dependent on them. The ingredients must remain active and the molecular structure has to be small enough to penetrate and effectively work the skin. Carefully chosen, these active components must go through a Micro-encapsulation process, in which the particles are joined into a tiny coated corpuscle that preserves the effectiveness of the ingredients. When the process is complete, the cosmetic products are specially processed in hot and cold temperatures, enabling the slow and effective release of the active ingredients. The Slow Release technology keeps working for many hours after application to the skin (approximately 12 hours) and provides your skin with fast and effective positive results. One of the prominent characteristics the cosmetic products have, are that they are based on Slow Release technology that when applied to facial skin, seemingly feel oily but is then quickly absorbed taking no longer than a minute. Further more your skin will feel nourished, flexible and radiant throughout the day.
FDA-Approved Skin Fillers Changing the Face of Cosmetic Dermatology
Every year, Americans spend millions of dollars on anti-aging products in their unwavering quest to look younger. But treating stubborn wrinkles and fine lines often require more help than is available at the cosmetics counter. In the last few months, several new skin fillers have received approval by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) for treating facial wrinkles and are safe and effective options for combating aging skin. Speaking at ACADEMY ’04, the American Academy of Dermatology’s summer scientific session in New York, dermatologist Leslie Baumann, M.D., an associate professor of clinical dermatology and director of cosmetic dermatology at the University of Miami, in Miami, Fla., compared the advantages of the latest FDA-approved skin fillers and those currently under review. “For years, dermatologists have known that wrinkles result from the loss of three crucial skin components – collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid,” said Dr. Baumann. “Today, we can replace two of these components – collagen and hyaluronic acid – that are lost as the skin ages. It is my hope that one day we will be able to replace elastin, as well.” The First Fillers While bovine collagen has been the undisputed filler of choice for the treatment of facial wrinkles since injectable skin fillers were introduced in the 1970s, its short-lived results and potential for allergic reactions limited its potential. Two years ago, human bioengineered collagen – which consists of collagen derived from human cells – was approved by the FDA for treating facial wrinkles, acne scarring and lip reshaping. Although human bioengineered collagen is an improvement over bovine collagen because it does not pose an allergy risk, dermatologists still sought a filler that could safely and effectively replace hyaluronic acid, the other primary component lost in aging skin. “In the last six months, two new fillers have been approved by the FDA that are able to replace the naturally-occurring sugars in the skin known as hyaluronic acid,” said Dr. Baumann. “These fillers work by pulling water into the skin, resulting in increased skin plumping and volume. In addition, several other fillers have been recommended for FDA approval that will expand our treatment options even more in the near future.”
Hyaluronic Acid Fillers Recently approved by the FDA as a skin filler, hyaluronic acid is a naturally-occurring component of the skin that functions by holding together collagen and elastin, providing a framework for the skin. When injected into the skin in gel form, hyaluronic acid binds to water and provides volume to easily fill in larger folds of skin around the mouth and cheeks. Patients notice an immediate plumping of the skin in the treated areas. One of the main advantages of hyaluronic acid gel is that it does not pose an allergy risk for patients and there is no risk of transmitting animal diseases by injection. Since a skin check for allergies is not required with hyaluronic acid gel, patients can be treated on their first visit to the dermatologist. Dr. Baumann also emphasized that the results of hyaluronic acid last approximately four to six months and require less volume to fill wrinkles and hard-to-treat skin folds compared to collagen. Despite its numerous benefits, Dr. Baumann cautioned that hyaluronic acid gel does not contain lidocaine, an anesthetic, so injections can be painful. In addition, there is usually temporary inflammation that produces swelling and redness following injection with hyaluronic acid gel – especially in the lip area. “Currently, the trend is to use a combined treatment of hyaluronic acid and collagen to maximize the benefits of each filler,” said Dr. Baumann. “By injecting collagen first, you numb the area, give it support and structure, and stabilize the skin to prevent bruising. When hyaluronic acid gel is injected afterward, the patient cannot feel it because they are numb from the collagen injection and are less likely to bruise, but they get the benefit of adding volume and water content to the skin. Using these fillers together, two of the major skin components that are lost with skin aging are replaced, resulting in a more youthful and natural appearance.” http://www.innovations-report.de/html/berichte/medizin_gesundheit/bericht-31863.html
MAXI-LIP™- Helps Promote Fuller, Healthier, More Voluptuous Lips
Once again, SEDERMA combines vision, science and technology to create an ingredient that can make a real and noticeable difference for lip products that keep their promise. Designed specifically for lip care, MAXI LIP™ hydrates the lips and helps to restore glycosaminoglycan and collagen, increasing lip moisture and adding volume to improve the contour of the lips and give better definition to the lip-line. The before and after photos are visual proof that MAXI LIP™ really works. In just weeks – lips have become healthier and more well-defined, fuller and more voluptuous. After 29 days of treatment with MAXI LIP™ … • Furrows were reduced by up to 30%! • Lip moisture increased by as much as 60%! • Lip volume increased by 40% on average! MAXI LIP™ also significantly reduces the appearance of cheilites to make dry, chapped, desquamating lips a thing of the past. http://www.crodausa.com/html_product_sheets/SedfeatureMaxilip2.htm
During aging, the epidermis and dermis become thin and an efficient anti-aging product should be able to stimulate the metabolism of senescent fibroblast and keratinocytes, in order to increase the quantity of extra-cellular matrix components such as collagen and glycosaminoglycans. A study performed in parallel on an in vitro skin equivalent model, and in vivo, with human volunteers, demonstrated the efficacy of one specific soya biopeptide for anti-aging properties. Such a biopeptide induces a significant increase of glycosaminoglycans synthesis in vitro and in vivo after a one-month treatment. We also showed that this new cosmetic ingredient is able to stimulate favourably the collagen synthesis in vitro and in vivo. This study provided the proof for anti-aging properties of a new soya biopeptide and also validated the skin equivalent model developed for this experimentation as an alternative method to animal or human testing for some cosmetic efficacy evaluations. http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/sites/entrez?Db=pubmed&Cmd=Retrieve&list_uids=18503447&dopt=abstractplus
What is it? Retinol is the primary naturally occurring form of vitamin A. It is a pale yellow crystalline material or a thick liquid. Retinyl Palmitate is a yellow to yellow-red solid or oily substance. Retinyl Palmitate is the ester of Retinol and palmitic acid. In cosmetics and personal care products, Retinol and Retinyl Palmitate are used primarily in the formulation of hair, facial makeup and skin care products. Why is it used in cosmetics and personal care products? Retinol and Retinyl Palmitate enhance the appearance of dry or damaged skin by reducing flaking and restoring suppleness. These ingredients also enhance the appearance and feel of hair, by increasing hair body, suppleness, or sheen, or by improving the texture of hair that has been damaged physically or by chemical treatment. Scientific facts: Retinyl Palmitate is produced from Retinol and is sometimes referred to as vitamin A palmitate. Retinol and Retinyl Palmitate are produced by commercial methods but can be found in animal fats, in fish liver oil, and in plants that contain beta-carotene, a vitamin A precursor. Retinol is essential for vision, growth, and reproduction. In addition to their use in cosmetics and personal care products, Retinol and Retinyl Palmitate can be found in foods and in vitamin supplements.
A lot has been said in recent years about amino acid skin care as an anti-aging treatment, and there is much left to be determined and discovered. Amino acids do seem to have a positive effect on prematurely aging skin, although you have to be careful how you mix them with other skin care products. When it comes to the pursuit of the fountain of youth, there is always something new, and people often jump on the bandwagon before they really know what they’re cheering about. It’s only after a lot of people have spent a lot of money that they discover a product may not really be worth its packaging. Thus far, amino acids do seem to provide some genuine benefits to the skin. Amino acids, at their essence, are peptides. These are proteins, which can have a positive effect upon cells. They can help improve skin that has been scarred or has stretch marks. When used correctly, amino acids seem to be more powerful than an alpha-hydroxy system of skin care in terms of filling lines, smoothing skin and improving tone and color. Even better, they can achieve this with less irritation and photosensitivity. It’s also understood that amino acids, applied externally in the right formula and also taken internally, can improve the skin’s ability to stay hydrated. Properly hydrated skin not only takes and holds cosmetics better, but looks and feels more youthful. The Big Four Amino Acids In talking about amino acid skin care, there are four main acids that are known to be an effective combination in building collagen. These acids are Proline, Glycine, Leucine and Lysine. Together, this formula acts as an exfoliant, works to improve moisture retention and also acts as an antioxidant, thus strengthening your skin even in harsh weather conditions. One of the most popular formulas of amino acid treatments is the trademarked AFA, which stands for amino acid filaggrin-based antioxidants. More study is needed to determine if this is the best formula for externally-applied amino acids, but so far it seems to be a good exfoliant and antioxidant that’s not too harsh. Fine lines and overall skin texture show considerable improvement, as do the look of scars or age spots. AFAs are being used in conjunction with peels and laser treatments to speed progress and promote overall skin health. Amino Acids in Hollywood You can’t talk about amino acid skin care without talking about what’s popular among the skin care-obsessed in the film industry. Youth and beauty are such premiums in that world, and money no object, so that every new trend immediately develops passionate devotees. One of the popular amino acid skin care treatment systems right now is Amino Genesis, which includes cleansers, moisturizers, serums, targeted repair formulas and even a treatment for hair. Users not only report improvement in fine lines and other cosmetic skin woes, they note that this system of amino acid skin care has an effect on skin plagued by psoriasis, chronic dermatitis and rosacea. Further scientific testing would be required to determine if this really is an effective long-term treatment for such skin conditions, but the results thus far are promising.
ALGISIUM C is a Silanol, a cosmetic active range of patented active ingredients relying on the silicium technology. It is an organic derivative of silicon, with many hydroxyl functions and are synthesized in the presence of different radicals which confer stability and specificity to the compound. The radical is mannuronic acid, extraced from laminaria, a brown algae. Algisium C is a multi-functional active ingredient. Its broad efficacy and cosmetic interest, substantiated by constant research and the feedback from worldwide customers, makes this active ingredient a reliable partner for various cosmetic applications. Algisium C and more broadly the Silanols have a long lasting skin restructuring activity that can optimize the noticeable benefits of other active ingredients. Skin’s natural silicium is a structural component of the connective tissue. It can be compared to dermal cement that ensures optimal links between the elements of the extra cellular matrix such as glycoaminoglycans and proteoglycans. Organic silicium restructuring activity helps maintaining skin’s mechanical’s properties such as elasticity, firmness but also preserves the cell’s optimal metabolic efficiency. With aging, naturally occuring skin organic silicium content naturally decreases. Less elastic and structured, the cutaneous tissue slowly collapses. Targeting skin rejuvenation, it is essential to compensate the observed natural loss of organic silicium. Algisium C is among the most effective sources of available silicium. It can be directly assimilated by the skin and persistently fights against the slow and inevitable collapse of the skin.
COSMETIC APPLICATIONS SKIN REPAIR – Prevention and restructuration SKIN FIRMING AND ELASTICITY – Collagen production stimulation LIPOLYSIS – Body slimming and helps reduce dark circles SOOTHING – Anti free radicals and inflammatory response control ANTI STRETCH MARKS – Deep hydration and optimized collagen quality FACE AND BODY HYDRATION – Intense and long lasting
Collagen is an important building block for the skin. It makes up to 30% of the protein of the living body and 70% of the protein that makes up skin. Collagen ensures the cohesion, elasticity and regeneration of skin. Skin tissue is composed of various molecules, some of which are amino acids, and these amino acids are essential for maintaining an even skin structure and thus healthy skin. The dermis, which provides the foundation for the skin, is closely involved in the skin’s elasticity and flexibility. Collagen is the main component of the dermis. Maintaining the amount of collagen is the key to beautiful skin. Glycine, proline, alanine and hydroxyproline are the main constituents of collagen; replenishing these constituent amino acids appears to be needed to maintain the amount of collagen at healthy levels.
Skin changes are among the most visible signs of aging. There has been a considerable increase in understanding how skin ages, along with significant progress toward reducing the visible signs of aging. Evidence of increasing age include fine lines, wrinkles and loss of elasticity such as sagging skin. Skin changes are related to environmental factors, genetic makeup, nutrition, and other factors. With aging, the outer skin layer (epidermis) thins, even though the number of cell layers remains unchanged. Changes in the connective tissue reduce the skin’s strength and elasticity. This is known as elastosis.
A growing body of research is showing nutraceuticals can contribute to healthy skin. While topical creams and cosmetic products can affect skin condition from outside, nutritional supplements taken orally can have an impact from within the skin. Clinical research has shown that Collagen, a natural protein:
Promotes younger looking skin; Improves skin moisture level; Improves skin smoothness by reducing the number of micro-relief furrows; Improves the signs of deep wrinkles Improves skin suppleness.
Collagen Peptides are a natural bioactive ingredient that improves epidermis moisture content and prevents skin aging. Several studies have demonstrated that collagen peptides are highly digestible. If native collagen is very resistant and regarded as indigestible, collagen peptides can be easily attacked by proteolytic enzymes. More than 90% of collagen peptides are digested and quickly absorbed after oral ingestion. As a food ingredient, oral ingestion of collagen peptides has been reported as safe.
When collagen is digested, the peptides are attracted to cells that synthesize collagen in the human body, fibroblasts, and are the most common cells of connective tissues in the skin. Collagen peptides may bring about the production and reorganization of new collagen fibers by stimulating the fibroblasts cells. Furthermore, some studies show that collagen peptides increase the density and diameter of collagen fibrils in the dermis and may improve the strength of skin.
Elastin is a remarkable human protein. It can be stretched to over eight times its original length and snaps back without any deformation. This remarkable natural elasticity underpins its contribution to the suppleness and resilience of young skin, allowing it to return to its original shape after being pinched, poked or stretched. Elastin is built up from multiple cross-linked molecules of the protein tropoelastin. This cross-linked structure is incredibly durable and is formed into fibers that are distributed across the extracellular space in a variety of tissues, including the lungs, arteries and skin. Together with Collagen (the scaffold) and Hyaluronic Acid (for moisture retention), Elastin (for elasticity) completes the trio of molecules associated with youthful skin. At birth Elastin is plentiful, enabling youthful skin to be supple and resilient to the touch. However, Elastin is progressively depleted from the skin with age, sun exposure, and following injury, resulting in a gradual loss of elasticity. This progressive loss of elasticity is one of the principle changes seen in the skin during the ageing process. The skin sags and forms wrinkles, becomes taut where it should be supple and loose, and bunched where it should hug the fleshy tissues underneath. Damaged and scarred tissue may also have depleted levels of Elastin, dramatically reducing its resilience and flexibility relative to surrounding skin. Treatments that allow levels of Elastin in skin to be restored may reverse some of these effects in both cosmetic applications such as skin augmentation and therapeutic interventions to help repair damaged and scarred tissue.
Trade name Azelex and available by prescription; a component of grains such as wheat, rye, and barley. It is effective for a number of skin conditions when applied topically in a cream formulation at 15% and 20% concentrations. In 2002 the FDA approved azelaic acid for the treatment of acne. For the most part, azelaic acid is recommended as an option for acne treatment (Source: International Journal of Dermatology, May 2007, pages 533-538), but there is also some research showing it to be effective for treatment of skin discolorations. For example, The efficacy of 20% azelaic acid cream and 4% hydroquinone cream, both used in conjunction with a broad-spectrum sunscreen, against melasma was investigated in a 24-week, double-blind study with 329 women. Over the treatment period the azelaic acid cream yielded 65% good or excellent results…. Severe side effects such as allergic sensitization or exogenous ochronosis were not observed with azelaic acid (Source: International Journal of Dermatology, December 1991, pages 893-895). However, other research suggests that azelaic acid is more irritating than hydroquinone mixed with glycolic acid or kojic acid (Source: eMedicine Journal, www.emedicine.com, November 5, 2001). If you have had problems using hydroquinone along with tretinoin for skin lightening, then azelaic acid may be a consideration. This multicenter, randomized, double-masked, parallel-group study assessed the efficacy, safety, and tolerability of azelaic acid 20% cream compared with those of its vehicle for the treatment of facial hyperpigmentation in darker-skinned patients (phototypes IV to VI). Following a 24-week treatment period, azelaic acid produced significantly greater decreases in pigmentary intensity than did vehicle as measured by both an investigator’s subjective scale (P = 0.021) and a chromometer analysis (P = 0.039). There was a significantly greater global improvement with azelaic acid than with vehicle at week 24 (P = 0.008). Azelaic acid produced a slightly but significantly greater amount of burning (weeks 4 and 12, P ≤ 0.046) and stinging (week 4, P = 0.002) than did vehicle. At the end of the study, more patients treated with azelaic acid than with vehicle reported having much smoother skin and being very satisfied or satisfied with their treatment. Also, more patients treated with azelaic acid than with vehicle rated their medication as being more effective or the same as past treatments. Thus azelaic acid is an effective and well-tolerated treatment for hyperpigmentation in darker-skinned patients.
Glycolic Acid and Lactic Acid are naturally occuring organic acids also known as Alpha Hydroxy Acids or AHAs. The salts of Glycolic Acid (Ammonium Glycolate, Sodium Glycolate), the salts of Lactic Acid (Ammonium Lactate, Calcium Lactate, Potassiu Lactate, Sodium Lactate, TEA-Lactate) and the esters of Lactic Acid (Methyl Lactate, Ethyl Lactate, Butyl Lactate, Lauryl Lactate, Myristyl Lactate, Cetyl Lactate) may also be used in cosmetics and personal care products. In cosmetics and personal care products, these ingredients are used in the formulation of moisturizers, cleansing products, and other skin care products, as well as in makeup, shampoos, hair dyes and colors and other hair care products.
What Are Alpha Hydroxy Acids? Alpha Hydroxy acids (AHA’s) are a class of chemical compounds that occur naturally in fruits, milk, and sugar cane. Although they are called acids they are not to be confused with strong industrial acids such as hydrochloric acid and sulfuric acid. The AHAs most commonly used in cosmetic products are glycolic acid (which is derived from sugar cane) and lactic acid (the substance that gives you muscle burn when you exercise). Other AHAs used include citric acid (from oranges, lemons, etc.), 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid, and 2-hydroxydecanoic acid. The AHA’s may be obtained from their natural sources or may be made synthetically. Why Are They Used In Cosmetics? Products containing AHA ingredients may be for consumer use, salon use, or medical use, depending on the concentration and pH (acidity). Since 1992 there have been products marketed as cosmetics intended to exfoliate and cleanse the skin. These products most often contain glycolic and lactic acids. They help reduce the appearance of skin wrinkling, even skin tones and soften and smoothe the skin. AHAs as used in cosmetics may function as exfoliants. They act on the surface of the skin by removing dead surface cells, thereby improving the appearance of the skin. In addition, lactic acid functions as a humectant-skin conditioning agent. AHAs also function as pH adjusters. pH Adjusters are materials added to products to make sure they are not too acid or base (low pH and high pH) and are thus mild and non-irritating. Many AHAs are naturally occurring products. For example, Glycolic Acid, a constituent of sugar cane juice, and Lactic Acid, which occurs in sour milk, molasses, apples and other fruits, tomato juice, beer, and wines, are carboxylic acid that function as pH adjusters and mild exfoliants in various types of cosmetic formulations. In addition, Lactic Acid functions as a humectant-skin conditioning agent
Kojic acid was discovered as a natural product derived form a mushroom in Japan in 1989. It has been successfully used to lighten pigment spots and skin discoloration and considered as a kind of popularly specialized inhibitor for melanin. At present, it is assigned into various kinds of cosmetics for curing freckles, spots on the skin of elder men, pigmentation and acne. How can Kojic acid inhibit the melanin? On a molecular level, melanin is produced in the body from the conversion (in several steps) of the amino acid tyrosine. The conversion requires the enzyme known as tyrosinase. Kojic acid can prevent the tyrosinase activity through synthesizing reaction with its antioxidant properties after penetrating upper skin layers and entering skin cells to inhibit the formation of pigment at the deep cells on the skin. Kojic acid can produce excellent effects in even toning the skin, fighting age spots, pregnancy marks, freckles as well as general skin pigmentation disorders of face and body. Is it safe to use Kojic acid for skin care? It is a pure (98%) and natural material. It also is widely used in the field of medicine and food. Because it can eliminate free radicals, strengthen cell activity, and keep food fresh. Kojic Acid is widely consumed in the Japanese diet and is believed to be beneficial to health.
Emblica® is a well-defined material, isolated from Phyllanthus emblica (syn. Emblica officinalis) fruits. The tree is native to tropical south eastern Asia, particularly India, Pakistan, Bangladesh, Sri Lanka and southern China. P. emblica is one of the most important Ayurvedic herbs in India, and has been used for over thousands of years for a wide variety of human ailments.
Emblica® is extracted from premium quality fruits using a, patent-protected water-based process, resulting in a 100% natural cosmetic raw material, with a well-defined composition of matter. EmblicaTM is rich in low molecular weight hydrolyzable tannins which give rise to the product’s superior performance. The unique structure of Emblica® is responsible for its multi-functional properties as Skin-lightening agent. Lightening skin tone has a long tradition in Asian countries and this trend is today in evidence widely across the whole world. Products classically used for skin lightening are today banned because of toxicological concerns and the cosmetic industry is eagerly searching for safe and efficient alternatives. Studies with Emblica® were performed with different ethnic groups. Results are expressed as increase in ITA degree which is a parameter for skin lightening. Emblica® showed very good skin lightening properties in all studies.
Topical vitamin C: a useful agent for treating photoaging and other dermatologic conditions.
Department of Dermatology, Tulane University School of Medicine, New Orleans, LA, USA. Background: Cosmeceuticals containing antioxidants are among the most popular antiaging remedies. Topically applied antioxidants exert their benefits by offering protection from damaging free radicals produced when skin is exposed to ultraviolet light or allowed to age naturally. Vitamin C is a naturally occurring potent water-soluble antioxidant. Accordingly, it has been incorporated into a variety of cosmeceuticals designed to protect and rejuvenate photoaged skin. Objective: This article reviews the scientific data and clinical studies supporting the use of topically applied vitamin C for treating photoaged skin. Other innovative uses for vitamin C cosmeceuticals are also discussed. Conclusion: A significant body of scientific research supports the use of cosmeceuticals containing vitamin C. Cutaneous benefits include promoting collagen synthesis, photoprotection from ultraviolet A and B, lightening hyperpigmentation, and improvement of a variety of inflammatory dermatoses. Because of the diverse biologic effects of this compound, topical vitamin C has become a useful part of the dermatologist’s armamentarium.
Among the most important new dermatologic discoveries is the power of vitamins to counter the effects of sun exposure. In research presented at the 2002 Annual Meeting of the American Academy of Dermatology, Duke University researcher Sheldon Pinnell and colleagues demonstrated that “appreciable photoprotection can be obtained from topical vitamins C and E.” “Topical Vitamin C can prevent the consequences of prolonged sun exposure which can lead to skin cancer,” says Karen E. Burke, MD, in a news release. “Supplementation with natural Vitamin E in 400 mg per day has been noted to reduce photodamage, wrinkles and improve skin texture.” This research has been backed up by a more recent study. The Journal of Investigative Dermatology reported in February 2005 that people who take vitamins C and E in the long term reduced their sunburns from exposure to UVB radiation. Further, researchers saw a reduction of factors linked to DNA damage within skin cells, leading them to conclude that antioxidant vitamins help protect against DNA damage. Vitamin C and E help by reducing the damage caused by free radicals, a harmful byproduct of sunlight, smoke, and pollution. Free radicals gobble up collagen and elastin, the fibers that support skin structure, causing wrinkles and other signs of aging. When these two vitamins are combined in a lotion, they can be highly protective against sun damage, says the American Academy of Dermatology. You can also try a topical vitamin C cream to encourage collagen production, just as your body does naturally when you are young. The trick here is to use a formulation containing the L-ascorbic acid form of vitamin C, the only one that can penetrate skin layers and do the job. You can find vitamin E in vegetable oils, nuts, seeds, olives, spinach, and asparagus. But it’s difficult to get a lot from food, so many people take a supplement. (Be aware, though, that some recent research warns that large doses of vitamin E can be harmful. Stay with 400 international units per day or less to be on the safe side.) Used in a cream, lotion, or serum form, vitamin E can soothe dry, rough skin, according to the American Academy of Dermatology.